Studio Ghibli's Spirits, Forests and Curses Explained

Torazen No Face Kaonasi Vintage Tee

Studio Ghibli is not a series, and that changes what a guide to it can usefully say. It is a film studio founded in 1985 by Hayao Miyazaki, Isao Takahata and Toshio Suzuki, and the thing people mean when they say a design looks Ghibli is a set of recurring ideas rather than one continuity: forests with something living in them, flight, bathhouses and ovens and laundry, and villains who turn out to be somebody's grandmother.

Three films supply almost all of the imagery worn on clothing, and they are the three our Studio Ghibli collection draws on. Here is what the recurring figures actually are.

Spirited Away: the bathhouse and the name

Chihiro is ten, sulking in the back of a car, and being moved to a town she did not choose. Her parents stop at what looks like an abandoned theme park, eat food left out on a counter, and turn into pigs. The place is a spirit town, and the building at the center of it is a bathhouse where the gods come to be washed.

To stay and work there, Chihiro signs a contract with the witch Yubaba, who takes two of the three characters in her name and leaves her as "Sen". That is the film's engine: the way to keep someone is to take their name, and the way out is to remember it. Everything else — the stink spirit that turns out to be a poisoned river, the shoveling of coal, the train across the flooded plain — hangs off that one transaction.

No-Face, and what he is doing

No-Face — Kaonashi, "without a face" — is the black figure in the white mask, and he is the most reproduced image the studio has. He is not a villain and not a friend. He is a spirit with no self of his own who copies whatever is nearest: given greed, he becomes enormous and eats people; given a quiet room and somewhere to sit, he becomes a polite houseguest who is good at spinning thread.

Chihiro is the only character in the bathhouse who is not interested in the gold he conjures, which is why he follows her and why he calms down when she leaves. The mask is a piece of graphic design that happens to be a character: an oval, two smudges, a closed line for a mouth, and a body that reads as pure black at any size.

Haku, and rivers that are people

Haku is a boy in the bathhouse and a white dragon in the air, and the reveal is that he is the spirit of the Kohaku River, which was filled in and built over. He cannot leave because he has forgotten his own name, and Chihiro gives it back to him by remembering falling into that river as a small child and being carried to the bank.

It is the same idea as Chihiro's contract, run in reverse, and it is why the dragon-and-girl pairing is the collection's most-used composition. A river that has been paved over is a spirit with nowhere to go; naming it is what frees it.

Princess Mononoke: forest gods and iron

Princess Mononoke is the studio's least comfortable film and the one with the clearest argument. Ashitaka is cursed by a boar god turned to a writhing mass of worms, and rides west to find out what poisoned it. What he finds is Irontown, a working settlement of lepers and former brothel workers led by Lady Eboshi, smelting iron and felling the forest to do it.

San, raised by wolves, fights them. The film refuses to make either side wrong: Eboshi gives shelter to people nobody else would take, and she is killing the forest to do it. Over it all is the Shishigami, the forest spirit — a deer-faced god by day, a vast translucent Nightwalker after dark — whose head is what everyone is really after.

The Kodama are the small white rattling tree spirits, and they are the barometer. Where they appear, the forest is healthy. Where they drop off the branches, it is not.

Howl's Moving Castle and Calcifer

Sophie makes hats, is cursed by the Witch of the Waste into the body of a ninety-year-old woman, and walks out of town rather than explain herself. She ends up keeping house in a castle that walks on mechanical legs, belongs to a vain wizard, and is powered by a fire demon named Calcifer.

The contract between Howl and Calcifer is the knot the film unties: Howl gave the demon his heart as a child, which is why the castle moves and why Howl cannot feel much. Calcifer is a pair of eyes and a mouth in a handful of flame, sitting in a hearth full of ash, complaining — another design that survives being reduced to two colors on cloth.

How this translates onto cloth

The through-line across all three films is a palette rather than a symbol set: deep forest green, ink black, warm white, and one hot accent — Calcifer's orange, the red of San's mask. The collection follows that. The No-Face and Kodama pieces work as flat black-and-white graphics; the Mononoke and Spirited Away prints carry more painted detail and sit on darker grounds.

The tees and hoodies are garment-washed cotton with a bonded matte print, so the painted artwork reads soft rather than plasticky. The knitted sweaters are jacquard knits, with the artwork worked into the cloth instead of printed on it. Where a design sits on the garment varies by piece and is stated on each product page.

Measurements for every size are on the sizing page, and the full set is in the Studio Ghibli collection.

Read next: how the jacquard knits are made, or Dandadan's yokai and aliens.

Torazen designs are independent fan-inspired work — not affiliated with or endorsed by the rights holders. Character and series names are used to describe what the artwork refers to.