Every product page on this store states a fabric weight in gsm and a fit. Both are useful once you know what they mean, and neither is a ranking — a heavier number is not a better garment, it is a different one.
This is the whole range in one place, with what each weight actually feels like to wear.
What gsm actually measures
Gsm is grams per square meter: the weight of the cloth, not the quality of it. A square meter of our vintage tee fabric weighs 270 grams. A square meter of the classic tee fabric weighs 230.
What that translates to in the hand is body and opacity. Lighter cloth drapes closer and breathes more. Heavier cloth holds its own shape, hangs away from you and is more opaque — which matters on pale colors and on prints that would otherwise show through from the back.
Anywhere from about 180gsm counts as a light tee; most high-street tees sit between 150 and 200. At 230 and 270 both of ours sit above that, which is the difference you feel first.
Garment-washed, and why it matters
Most of the archive is garment-washed, which means the finished piece is washed after it is sewn rather than the cloth being washed before cutting. Two consequences, and they are the reason the range is built this way.
First, the hand is softer immediately. A garment-washed tee does not have the crispness of a new blank; it starts where an unwashed tee gets to after a month.
Second, most of the shrinkage has already happened. What you measure on arrival is roughly what you keep, rather than what you had before the first wash.
The trade is surface. Washed cloth has a slightly irregular face, which is why the artwork on those pieces is drawn in bolder shapes — fine hairline detail does not sit as cleanly on it. The unwashed pieces in the range, the long sleeve and the classic tee, take finer line work for exactly that reason.
Every blank in the archive
| Piece | Weight | Cloth | Fit | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic tee | 230gsm | Combed cotton | Regular | Lightest in the range. Fine fish-scale texture at the hem. |
| Vintage tee | 270gsm | Garment-washed cotton | Relaxed oversized | The core blank. Most of the archive is this. |
| Long sleeve | 270gsm | Combed cotton | Regular | Rib collar and cuffs. Not washed, so a cleaner surface. |
| Tank | 270gsm | Washed cotton | Relaxed | Same cloth and prints as the vintage tee. |
| Sweatshirt | 270gsm | Washed cotton | Relaxed oversized | Crewneck version of the vintage weight. |
| Vintage hoodie | 270gsm | Garment-washed cotton | Oversized drop-shoulder | The shoulder seam sits down the arm by design. |
| Classic hoodie | 380gsm | Cotton-poly fleece | Regular | Plush interior. The heavyweight option. |
| Zip-up | 270 or 380gsm | Washed cotton or combed cotton | Varies | Two different blanks. The product page states which. |
| Knit / cardigan | — | 100% cotton knit | Relaxed knit | Ribbed crew, cuffs and hem. Pre-washed to reduce shrinkage. |
| Shorts | 380gsm | 85/15 combed-cotton blend | True to size | Seamless side construction. |
| Joggers | 420gsm | Cotton-poly, brushed fleece lining | Tapered | Heaviest thing we make. Elastic cuffs. |
| Compression top | — | Performance stretch knit | Snug | Deliberately close-fitting. Full composition printed on the garment label. |
Which pieces run oversized
Three different things get called oversized and they are not the same, so here is how we use the words.
Relaxed oversized — the vintage tee, the sweatshirt. Wider through the body and shorter in proportion than a standard cut. Still true to size: take your normal size and it will sit the way it is meant to.
Oversized drop-shoulder — the vintage hoodie. The shoulder seam deliberately sits down the arm rather than on the shoulder point. If you are used to a seam sitting on the bone, this will look wrong on the hanger and correct on the body.
Regular — the classic tee, the classic hoodie, the long sleeve. Conventional cut, seam on the shoulder.
Everything above is true to size. The two exceptions are stated on their own pages: the joggers, where sizing up gives more room at the thigh, and the compression top, which is snug on purpose.
The three print methods
Bonded matte carries most of the archive. The artwork sits flat against the cloth with no gloss, so it does not catch the light as a rectangle the way a heat-pressed transfer does.
Dense-stitch embroidery is used on the embroidered pieces. The artwork is thread rather than a layer sitting on top of the fabric, so there is nothing printed to crack or peel away.
Reflective is a small run. In ordinary light the print reads as a muted gray; under direct light it returns the light and the full design appears. It is designed to do two different things depending on where you are standing.
Where a design sits — chest, back, sleeve, or two-sided — varies piece by piece and is stated on each product page rather than assumed.
If you are between sizes
Exact measurements for every size of every piece are published on the sizing page in both inches and centimeters, because a letter on a label means different things to different manufacturers and a chest measurement does not.
The useful move is to measure a garment you already own and like the fit of, laid flat, and compare that number rather than guessing from S, M or L. If you are between two sizes on a relaxed oversized piece, the smaller size will still read as oversized.
Independent fan-inspired designs — not affiliated with or endorsed by the rights holders.